A spectacular celebration at Les Sables

Recently we had one of the longest, but most enjoyable, days we have had for a long time.

It was a day of three halves, so to speak :)

The Storm and the Slow Start

It was another hot and humid start which could only mean one thing – thunderstorm!

No “raindrops on roses” moment here though, as Lisa and I both slept through it :)

So it was a slow beginning to the day. The weather forecast showed storms all down the west coast for most of the day, and our excitement about a day at Les Sables d’Olonne was starting to fade. We had visions of trailing round trying to find shelter from the rain, not something that we relished.

We had our elevenses of coffee and croissant and assessed the situation. The sky in Foussais was clearing and with the blue sky our hopes for a decent day returned, so we bit the bullet, packed up our picnic, gathered the beach gear and set out for Les Sables.

Baking on the Beach

After a leisurely lunch in a local restaurant (mmm…I love anchovies on my pizzas :) ) we trekked back to the car and gathered our bags for a lengthy stay on the beach. It was certainly very busy – the busiest French beach we have seen for a long time. We are used to being only one of a handful of families on the sand and the bank-holiday crowds were quite a surprise.

But still we were able to find a spot to set out our pitch. The sun by this time was blisteringly hot, so Molly and Joe took to the sea on their body-boards, while Lisa, Rosie and I soaked up the rays.

And there we stayed for a good few hours. The sea was warm, as I can confirm having ventured out into it to play with the kids! We watched the tide come in to within a few feet of our toes, but luckily we had Joe on hand to dig us a trench which he assured us wold stop the advance of the Atlantic, should it dare to come any closer!

And as the tide went out, so the sun began to dip in the sky. As we were all starting to feel a bit fried, we decided to pack up and head back to the car for something to eat.

Tea was a picnic eaten in the car park, for our day wasn’t finished yet. We were fuelling ourselves for a long night ahead at the main attraction of the day – the Vendee Globe celebrations.

A Fabulous Feu d’Artifice

From the car we trekked the full length of the beach to get to the stage area that had been set up at the far end. Here was where the presentations would take place of the prizes for the skippers in theis year’s Vendee Globe.  Huge inflatable screens had been erected to show the proceedings to the massed crowds. all surrounding the spectacular stage.

As night eventually fell, the proceedings started with the dignitaries and celebrities filing past up to the stage. Sadly we didn’t have a clue who most of them were (apart from a couple of the skippers that we recognised) so we could have actually seen someone really famous!

Then the show began with a huge firework display for 5 minutes. This really took us by surprise and was a great start to the occasion. As the sparks faded in the sky the stage lit up with an amazing projected wave effect. Out stepped the presenter for the evening (not sure who he was!) to introduce the night’s programme.

The evening continued with the skippers coming on stage in groups of 4 (for the lower-placed finishers) and then individually, to receive their trophies and be interviewed. Most skippers told of how hard it had been, but what a great experience.

As each skipper came out, the screen behind the stage was filled with their photo, and the screen to the side showed the details of their boat.

In betwen the interviews, short films showing highlights from the race were shown on the big screens. On this scale we really understood the extreme harsh conditions the skippers had to endure as part of the race. The size of some of the waves made it look more like a Hollywood movie – rather scary to think that it was all real.

Of course we saved big cheers for the British skippers Dee Caffari and Sam Davies (who are, incidentally, soon heading off on a record-breaking attempt around Britain). We noted that although they both spoke very good French, their accents were terrible, so there’s hope for us yet! :)

As we got to the top 6 skippers, the entrance of each one was heralded by a short volley of fireworks, each getting more and more impressive as we approached 1st place.

And so, as the winner, Michel Desjoyeux, stepped out onto the stage, the sky errupted with an enormous explosion of fireworks, accompanied by a stirring soundtrack that thrilled the 120,000-strong crowd gathered on the beach.

It was an incredible experience. Just knowing what these skippers had gone through over the three months that they were sailing round the world made their presence there that night a real privilege. It was very special for us too to see the excitement on Joe’s face as the night wore on. He had studied the race at school and it really captured his imagination. He knew everything there was to know about the race and the skippers. He was so thrilled to see it all culminating in this amazing celebration.

And rounding off the evening was another spectacular firework display, which, combined with the music, lights and huge crowd, made for an astonishing end to an amazing day.
http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377

Check out all the photos from the day here

Guy who?

As we approached November, we were asked one question more and more by our friends and family back home…”Do they have Guy Fawkes night in France?” [what's "Guy Fawkes night"?]

Now, think about it folks…

Guy Fawkes caught red-handed

Clearly, there is no reason for the French people to want to celebrate a group of persecuted Catholics trying to blow up the Houses of parliament. Although, given the violent and revolutionary history of France, it could well have been a chapter in early French history rather than English.

But no, sadly there is no bonfire night in France. We have other excuses for a feu d’artifice throughout the year (Bastille Day anyone?) and tonight there will be no fireworks, no sparklers, no rockets streaking across the sky until the early hours of the morning….

If you are in the UK and are enjoying these things tonight, have fun and stay safe. :)

Grand Pavois - La Rochelle Sept 2008

A simply spectacular soirée at La Rochelle

Each year in the port at La Rochelle there is a huge boat show called Le Grand Pavois [website], which lasts all week and culminates in a spectacular show combining boats, fireworks and music. As you probably know by now, we love anything like that, so when Kevin and Sylvie suggested we go over and watch it with them, we jumped at the chance.

Crocodiles?…in France?

We started the evening with a stroll through the park near their house. La Rochelle is somewhere we have passed around and through in the car, but have never had chance to explore, so it was really good to see some of the parts of the city that attract thousands of people here every week. It was a very picturesque park, with the path leading us through the trees, alongside a river, over bridges, and finally delivering us to the beach. All very nice indeed – we can certainly see the benefits of living here.

On the beach there was an amazing sand-sculpture of a crocodile (dragon?) which even had real fire in his nose! Apparently it was made by a guy who sleeps on the beach in a tent. He is certainly very talented.
Grand Pavois - La Rochelle Sept 2008

Having walked along the walls of the old port, we spotted some empty places on the other side, our intended viewing position for the night’s entertainment. So we hopped on the little boat-bus that whizzed us across the water to the other side, where we found a good place to sit, right on the edge of the wall. No-one was going to come and stand in front of us!

Its Pineau time!

So we were settled in our spot with about 3 hours before the show was due to start, so what were we to do? Eat and drink of course! Out came the Pineau (naturally) and the snacks and we kept ourselves entertained by trying to pour the drink into the tiniest of glasses in a strong wind :) and watching the boys demonstrating their jedi skills to the passing french…

Grand Pavois - La Rochelle Sept 2008

While we waited, the boats that were going to take part in the show drifted past us into the port, and shortly after we were entertained (slightly) by some waveriders (like water-skiers but on a single ski) going up and down down the odd trick.  Rather strangely there was also a barge going up and down the water containing some Irish dancers, although there didn’t seem to be much dancing going on which was a bit disappointing.

Anyway, as the sun slowly dipped down behind the La Rochelle skyline, the time for the start of the show approached.

Grand Pavois - La Rochelle Sept 2008

Into the west

As darkness finally enveloped the port-side, it began. Firstly, all the boats, lit by simple torches, floated slowly from the port and out to sea accompanied by some beautifully haunting music and some lovely “gentle” fireworks. It was a really moving start and reminded me (geek that I am) of the ending of “The Return of the King” when the elves sail off into the west… anyway, don’t get me started on that!

Grand Pavois - La Rochelle Sept 2008

After the parade of  boats, the fireworks started in earnest, with an incredible display. The walls of the port and the buildings facing us were all lit in a variety of colours to tie in with the fireworks and there was music piped across the port. I know we say it every time we have been to a fireworks display, but we all thought that this one was simply the best one yet. I think the combination of the location, the music, the lights, the fireworks, and sharing it with great friends, made it such a breathtaking end to the day.

We were all very numb after sitting on the port-side for so long, but the wine and the pineau helped out there, and it was all worth it in the end.

Nieul, Village de Lumière

On Saturday night we paid a visit to a most amazing evening of entertainment that was only 10 minutes from our door. Each year, the village of Nieul-sur-l’Autise is sealed off and puts on a evening of music, dance and many other entertainments from various eras of the village’s history.  All this is set throughout one of the most beautiful villages in the Vendee, with the backdrop the stunning 11th-century abbey. The evening is entitled “Nieul, Village de Lumière” and is a very well organised night out.Nieul-Sur-l'Autise

We arrived into the parking area, very well signposted and marshalled by some chaps in hi-viz jackets. Carcassonne could learn something from this for Bastille Day! Then, after paying a very reasonable €5 each for entry, we strolled into the village itself. What a beautiful place it was. Apparently the abbey was granted the title of Royal Abbey in the 12th century by Eleanor of Aquitaine, so the place is steeped in history. I have to say the abbey was truly stunning. It was a lovely clear summer’s evening and this gave the building a fantastic background. From every angle it was a picture-postcard scene. I could have taken hundreds of photos of it…

Nieul-sur-l'Autise

We walked through the abbey and the cloisters – some really amazing architecture and the gardens were beautiful. We’re not religious in any way, but there was certainly something about the building that was very peaceful – one could almost imagine the monks shuffling silently around hundreds of years ago.

Nieul-Sur-l'AutiseIn contrast, the shows that were dotted around the village were not so peaceful. Upon arival we were treated to “le french cancan” – yes, they say french rather than français! -  all screams and whoops and clapping wildly.

There was a flamenco dancer, some traditional French folk dancing and a live performance by a baroque group (I’m not sure if they called it baroque-and-roll, but it was quite jolly :) ). This gave way to a show based in the same period which featured various characters in fencing duels – nice to see some ladies taking part in this one!  There was also a brass band from the Napoleonic era playing traditional songs and firing VERY LOUD guns – a little more warning would have been appreciated chaps!

Nieul-Sur-l'AutiseThere was also a “dancing fountains” show, where fountains are played with lights and they weave patterns to music – this was very impressive. The path up to this show was lit by different coloured lights shining under umbrellas on the ground. I really liked this affect and was a great way to set the mood for the entertainment to come.

As the  darkness fell, the abbey and the surrounding buildings were lit up with combinations of lasers, lights and projections. The abbey itself had some amazing stained-glass effects projected onto its front elevation – something quite unusual but also beautiful.

There were various bars and restaurants around, and when it got to around 10pm were were getting peckish. It was then that we discovered the only bad thing about the evening – everyone had run out of chips! I know, what a nightmare! We had seen people walking round with some huge chip butties (sorry, “baguettes aux frites“) and by the time we got round to getting one they had all gone. We had to make do with a hot dog (well, just a bun for Lisa, being a veggie) and it was not really the same. Still, we got over our disappointment and managed to make it to midnight when the fireworks began.Nieul-Sur-l'Autise

Wow. What an incredible display. We thought the Bastille Day show at Carcassonne was good, but I think this show was at least an equal to it. Only 15 minutes long, but it was set to music and contrasted lively music and huge explosive fireworks with downbeat music and pretty colourful fireworks. The whole effect was stunning and we were left totally speechless.

At the end of the night, as we were guided out of the village by the same friendly marshalls and gendarmes, we were left thinking what a great night it had been. All that entertainment right on our doorstep for just €5 each. Now that’s what I call value for money.

Parades, ports and pools

Another packed weekend behind me…

Thanks to the very handy collection of public holidays in France, I had a nice break from work for the last few days. As this coincided with a visit from my parents, it was doubly-nice.

09052008862On Friday we paid a visit to Coulon, on the edge of the Marais Poitevin. This is an area of marshes and canals that criss-cross their way through the woodland, stretching from Coulon to pretty much the coast. Its somewhere we’ve been meaning to visit for a long time and so we finally got round to it. What a beautiful place it is. We only saw a very little portion of it as we had to get back in the afternoon for Molly to go to a party, but what we saw was lovely. Definitely somewhere to explore further.

Then on Saturday we took Mum and Dad to La Rochelle. We took a rather scenic route to get there, but arrive we did. Once within spitting distance of the city we began playing the “lets try to find somewhere to park” game. After circling round and round the city for what seemed like half an hour, we finally stumbled upon the park and ride car park. What a little gem that is! €2 to park for about 4 hours, with a free shuttle bus into the old port and back again. Thinking back to similar schemes in the UK I recall having to pay extortionate amounts for this DSCF0542kind of thing. The weather was lovely and we had fun exploring the city (although I fear the shops were more of a draw for some members of the family than others…).

We had lunch on the dock-side and ate an ice-cream as we watched the boats coming and going – all very civilised. We promised ourselves we would come back another time and see the aquarium – a bit more interesting for the kids than shopping methinks :)

Sunday was the day of the Fontenay Biennial festival. After a lazy morning (much-needed after lots of walking the previous 2 days) we lathered ourselves in suncream (the summer came in force this week) and headed off into Fontenay. Our worries about parking were unfounded as the town had opened up the car park at the Stade Municipal – lots of room and well placed for a short walk into the centre. We positioned ourselves at the mi-point of the main street and waited…and waited…and waited. The advertised start time was 2pm, but the parade was so steady, it didn’t reach our position until about 3.30! But it was certainly worth the wait. About 30 different groups filed past representing the different villages around Fontenay, as well as the different countries where the town is twinned with another.

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There were flamenco dancers, line dancers, polynesian dancers, marching bands a-plenty. And the floats were amazing, all decorated with thousands of paper flowers. Mister Fontenay was there (as promised), as well as the countess and her predecessors. All the participants did incredibly well to keep going as the heat was so intense. It was a great atmosphere and there was no trouble (compared with similar events in the UK, where there would always be some elements of the crowd up to no good).

There were no police guarding the parade, nor barriers to hold people back. It was just a very friendly event with everyone having a good time. Just what we wanted.

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So eventually the parade passed us by and we headed home for some much needed refreshment, before venturing back out for the night-time parade at 10pm. This was a smaller-scale affair, with pretty much the same floats as had been in the earlier one, but this time they were illuminated in various fashions. This was quite effective, but without the music is lacked a bit of the atmosphere. This didn’t matter to a lot of the participants though, as I think they had all kept themselves entertained in the local bars in between sessions!

The culmination of the night was supposed to be a firework display – the thing we had really come out for and the reason we allowed the kids to be out so late. DSCF0680

It was due to start at midnight, which, of course, normally means at least 20 past. But when it got to half past midnight and still there was no sign of anyone lighting even a match, never mind a blue touch-paper, we just had to give in and go home. What a shame, but everyone was dead on their feet and we just couldn’t wait any longer. Still, it had been a great day and we’re really glad we went.

Unsurprisingly Monday morning was a quiet affair – big lay-ins all round. Then at lunchtime we went for a walk in the woods at Mervent – one of our favourite places. It’s so beautiful there and so peaceful. We took a picnic and joined the other like-minded folks in enjoying it in the dappled shade of the trees. The afternoon was wet, though not with rain to begin with. Peter and Judith had invited the kids round to play in their pool and the adults for aperitifs. A very pleasant afternoon, although it was spoiled after a couple of hours by the rain. Still, we can’t grumble. It had been another lovely day.